Tennis

Quick answer: RA rating measures how much a frame flexes on contact, typically 55–75 for adult rackets. A stiffer frame (higher RA) flexes less, returning energy faster for more effortless power — but transmits more shock to your arm. A more flexible frame (lower RA) absorbs more shock into the frame itself, giving a more comfortable, controlled feel at the cost of some raw power. Reading the RA scale Below 60 (flexible): the most comfortable, arm-friendly end of the scale. Popular on control and touch-oriented frames. 60–67 (medium): where most all-round club and intermediate frames sit — a workable balance of comfort and pop. 68 and above (stiff): maximum power and a crisp, solid feel on contact, but the least forgiving on the arm, especially over long sessions. Why stiffness matters for arm comfort Every time the ball hits the strings, energy has to go somewhere: into the ball, into the frame's flex, or into your arm. A flexible frame absorbs more of that energy into its own bend before it reaches your hand, cushioning the impact. A stiff frame barely flexes at all, so more of that shock passes straight through to your wrist, elbow and shoulder — one of the most common contributing factors in tennis elbow. Stiffness is not the same as power from head size It is easy to conflate stiffness with head size, but they are separate specs. A small-headed frame can still be quite stiff, and a large-headed frame can be built flexible. Always check RA rating on its own if arm comfort is a priority — do not assume a smaller head automatically means a softer feel. Offsetting a stiff frame (or a flexible one) String choice and tension can shift the felt stiffness of any racket within a limited range. A softer multifilament or natural gut string, strung a touch looser, will noticeably soften the ride of a stiffer frame. Conversely, a stiff polyester strung tight on an already stiff frame is the combination most likely to aggravate arm problems. Matching stiffness to your needs History of tennis elbow, wrist or shoulder issues: RA 60–65, paired with a multifilament or hybrid string at a moderate tension. No arm concerns, want maximum effortless power: RA 68+ is worth exploring, ideally demoed first. Most club players: RA 62–67 covers the vast majority of frames and suits most games without extremes in either direction. Our recommendation If you have ever experienced elbow or wrist discomfort, treat RA rating as seriously as head size or weight when choosing a racket — it is one of the biggest levers you have over long-term arm health, and it is rarely printed clearly on the frame itself, so ask us to check it before you buy.

Quick answer: a racket does not wear out on a fixed schedule, but the frame does fatigue with age and use. Visible cracks are an immediate stop-use signal; a "dead" feel, worn grommets and outgrowing your current spec are the more common, less obvious signs it is time to move on. Stop using it immediately if you see this Any visible crack in the frame — especially near the throat or around the head — is a structural failure risk. Continuing to play (and especially to string) a cracked frame can cause it to fail completely under tension or impact. Paint chipping alone is cosmetic and not a reason to stop, but a crack underneath is. The less obvious signs The frame feels "dead": graphite and resin layups lose a small amount of stiffness and responsiveness over years of repeated impact — the racket increasingly feels muted or flat compared to when it was new, even with fresh string. Worn or missing grommets: the small plastic tube lining the string holes protects the string from the sharp edge of the frame. Once grommets crack or fall out, strings cut against bare graphite and break prematurely at the same spot every time. Repeated breaks at the same access point: if strings keep snapping in the same place near the frame edge rather than in the centre of the stringbed, worn grommets or a rough frame edge are usually the cause. You have outgrown it: this is not damage — it is progress. A player whose technique and level have moved beyond their current spec often benefits more from a racket change than any other single equipment upgrade. How long does a racket actually last? For a casual player hitting once a week, a well-looked-after frame can perform well for many years, sometimes a decade or more, with no meaningful performance loss. For a player training three or more times a week, expect the frame's peak performance to start fading somewhere between three and five years, even without any visible damage. What does not mean you need a new racket Scuffed paint, faded cosmetics, or a scratched throat guard are all purely visual. If the frame is structurally sound, feels the same as when new, and grommets are intact, cosmetic wear alone is not a reason to replace it. Our recommendation If you are unsure whether a racket has genuinely faded or you have simply improved past it, bring it in for a quick check — a stringer can spot grommet wear and frame flex issues in a couple of minutes, and demoing a current-generation frame next to your old one usually makes the difference obvious immediately.

Quick answer: gauge measures string thickness, and the numbering is backwards from what you would expect — a bigger gauge number means a thinner string. 16 gauge is the thickest and most durable; 18 gauge is the thinnest, with the most feel and spin, but the shortest lifespan. What the numbers mean in real terms 16 gauge (≈1.30–1.34mm): the thickest common string diameter — durable and long-lasting. 16L / 16.5 gauge (≈1.25–1.28mm): a popular middle ground between 16 and 17. 17 gauge (≈1.20–1.25mm): noticeably thinner, more feel and spin than 16, shorter lifespan. 18 gauge (≈1.10–1.16mm): the thinnest widely available gauge — maximum feel and spin, but wears through fastest. Why thinner strings feel different A thinner string embeds into the ball slightly more on contact and moves more freely against neighbouring strings, both of which increase spin potential and give a softer, more responsive feel. The trade-off is durability: less material means the string notches, frays and loses tension faster, especially against a topspin-heavy game or a partner's flat, hard hitting. Why thicker strings last longer More material per string means more is needed to wear through before it snaps or the tension collapses. Thicker strings also hold tension slightly longer, so play stays consistent for longer between restrings — useful for players who do not want to think about their string bed between visits. Gauge and durability versus gauge and feel There is no free lunch here: any gain in feel, spin or comfort from going thinner comes directly at the cost of durability, and vice versa. Players who break strings often, or who value consistency over feel, are usually better off a gauge thicker than players chasing maximum spin and touch. Mixing gauges in a hybrid setup Many players get the best of both by hybrid stringing — a thicker, more durable gauge in the mains (which take most of the wear) paired with a thinner gauge in the crosses (where feel matters most). This is a common way to stretch the lifespan of a spin-friendly setup without losing all of its feel. Matching gauge to your game Frequent string breakers, beginners, value-focused players: 16 gauge — durability and consistent tension first. Most club players: 16L or 17 gauge — a sensible balance of feel and lifespan. Advanced players chasing spin and touch, who restring often anyway: 17 or 18 gauge. Our recommendation If you are not sure, start at 16L or 17 — it is the gauge most players settle on long-term. Go thinner only if you specifically want more spin and feel and are prepared to restring more often to get it.

Quick answer: the two numbers are main strings (vertical) by cross strings (horizontal). Fewer strings — an "open" pattern like 16×19 — move more on contact, generating more spin and a softer feel. More strings — a "dense" pattern like 18×20 — move less, giving more control and durability but less spin. What the numbers actually mean A 16×19 pattern has 16 main strings running head-to-handle and 19 cross strings running side-to-side. An 18×20 pattern packs in two extra mains and one extra cross, leaving less gap between strings. Open patterns (16×18, 16×19) More spin: wider gaps let strings shift and snap back on contact, grabbing the ball longer and imparting more topspin — the main reason open patterns dominate the modern spin-heavy game. Softer feel: more string movement absorbs some shock, giving a plusher, more comfortable sensation on contact. Less durable: with fewer strings sharing the load, each string wears faster — expect to restring more often, especially with polyester. Dense patterns (18×20) More control: less string movement means a more predictable, "what you see is what you get" response — the ball goes where the racket face points with less variance. More durable: load is spread across more strings, so each one lasts longer before notching or breaking. Less spin, firmer feel: the trade-off for that control and durability is a flatter, crisper contact with noticeably less spin potential than an open pattern strung identically. The middle ground: 16×20 A useful hybrid found on many all-round frames — the 16 mains keep spin potential reasonably high while the extra cross string adds a touch more control and durability than a full 16×19. Pattern matters as much as string choice A spin-friendly polyester strung into a dense 18×20 frame will always produce less spin than the same string in an open 16×19 — the physical pattern sets the ceiling, and string choice fine-tunes within it. If you are chasing spin, check the pattern before you check the string. Matching pattern to your game Heavy topspin, modern baseline game: 16×19 — maximum spin and a comfortable, forgiving feel. Flat, precise ball-striking, frequent string breakers: 18×20 — control and durability first. Not sure yet: 16×20 — a sensible all-round starting point. Our recommendation String pattern is fixed to the frame, so it is one of the first things to consider when choosing a racket — not something to fix afterwards. If you already own a racket and want more spin without switching frames, dropping tension slightly and choosing a spin-friendly polyester is the next best thing.

Quick answer: a bigger head gives you a bigger sweet spot, more power and more forgiveness on off-centre hits. A smaller head gives you more precision, better feel and finer control — at the cost of forgiveness. Most club players are best served by a midplus frame in the middle of the range. The three head size categories Midsize (85–97 sq in): the smallest modern head sizes. Smaller sweet spot, but rewards a clean, technically sound swing with precision and feedback. Favoured by advanced and touch-oriented players. Midplus (98–105 sq in): the most common category on the market. A workable balance of control and forgiveness that suits the majority of club and improving players. Oversize (106–135 sq in): the largest sweet spot and the most inherent power and forgiveness. Popular with beginners, players returning to the game, and some seniors prioritising ease of play over precision. Why head size changes how a racket plays A larger stringbed flexes more on contact, acting like a bigger trampoline — the ball spends fractionally longer on the strings, which adds free power and can help generate spin, especially for players who do not yet swing fast enough to generate their own pace. A smaller head flexes less, giving a more solid, precise feel but demanding more accurate contact to access the same power. Head size and control are not opposites — they trade off It is tempting to think "small head = control, big head = power" as a strict rule, but the real trade-off is forgiveness versus precision. A well-struck ball off a 110 sq in frame can still be very controlled; the difference shows up on mishits, where the larger head is more forgiving and the smaller head punishes poor contact more. How head size interacts with stiffness Manufacturers often pair larger heads with stiffer frames to maximise power for players who need it, and smaller heads with more flexible frames for players who want feel and touch. This means head size rarely tells the whole story on its own — always check stiffness (RA rating) alongside it, especially if arm comfort is a concern. Matching head size to your game Beginners and returning players: 105–115 sq in — maximum forgiveness while your timing develops. Improving club players: 98–105 sq in — the sweet spot (literally) between control and forgiveness. Advanced and competitive players: 95–100 sq in — smaller, more precise, for players who generate their own power and want maximum control. Our recommendation If you are between two sizes, sizing up is usually the safer choice — a slightly larger head is more forgiving as your technique develops, and you can always move down once your contact becomes more consistent. Demo before you commit; head size is one of the easiest specs to feel the difference in in your first few rallies.

Quick answer: weight controls how much power and stability a racket gives you for free; balance controls how easy it is to swing fast. A heavier, head-light racket rewards players who generate their own pace with control and stability; a lighter, more head-heavy racket helps players who need help generating power swing it with less effort. Weight: the raw numbers Adult rackets typically weigh 250–310g strung. As a rough guide: 250–280g (light): easy to swing fast, forgiving on mistimed shots, but gives less inherent stability on heavy incoming balls. 280–300g (mid): the most common range for club and improving players — a workable balance of manoeuvrability and plough-through. 300g+ (heavy): more stable and powerful on contact, but demands more strength and a longer, more committed swing to control. Balance: where the weight sits Balance describes whether the weight is concentrated towards the head or the handle, usually expressed in points head-light (HL) or head-heavy (HH): Head-light (6–10 points HL): feels lighter in the swing than its static weight suggests, quick through transitions at net and on fast exchanges. Common on control-oriented and tour frames. Even balance: a blend, common on all-round intermediate frames. Head-heavy (1–4 points HH): adds effortless mass behind the ball, popular on some power-oriented and beginner frames, but can feel cumbersome on quick net exchanges. Why the combination matters more than either number alone A heavy, head-heavy racket can feel like hard work to swing and slow to reset between shots. A very light, head-light racket can feel unstable against a hard-hitting opponent because there is simply not enough mass to resist the incoming ball. Most well-designed rackets balance the two: heavier frames are usually cut more head-light, and lighter frames are usually left closer to even or slightly head-heavy, so the swing always feels manageable. Swingweight: the number that actually predicts feel Static weight and balance combine into swingweight — a measurement of how much effort it takes to swing the racket, typically 300–330 for adult frames. Two rackets with identical static weight can feel completely different if their swingweight differs, which is why demoing a racket always beats reading a spec sheet. Matching spec to your game Beginners and slower swingers: lighter (260–285g), even to slightly head-heavy — easier to generate pace. Improving club players: 285–300g, even to slightly head-light — a workable all-rounder. Advanced, fast-swinging players: 300g+, head-light — for control and stability without sacrificing racket head speed. Our recommendation Come in and demo two or three specs rather than choosing on paper — swingweight is felt, not read. If a racket is close but not quite right, a stringer can add small amounts of lead tape to shift the balance a point or two in either direction without buying a new frame.

Quick answer: yes, but modestly. Vibration dampeners reduce the high-frequency "ping" you feel and hear after contact, which many players find more comfortable — but independent testing shows they do little to nothing to prevent tennis elbow, since most harmful shock is absorbed by the arm before the vibration even reaches the dampener. What a dampener actually does When the ball hits the strings, the bed vibrates at two different frequencies: a low-frequency "shock" that transfers through the frame into your arm almost instantly, and a higher-frequency "ring" that continues briefly after contact. A dampener — the small rubber or silicone piece woven into the strings — only damps that second, higher-frequency ring. It cannot reach the initial shock, which has already passed into your arm by the time the string bed settles. So does it help with arm pain? Biomechanics research on stringbed vibration (widely cited studies from the International Tennis Federation and various sports science labs) consistently finds no measurable reduction in the shock transmitted to the elbow or wrist. If you are managing tennis elbow, a dampener is not a substitute for looking at string type, tension, grip size and racket stiffness — all of which have a far bigger effect on arm comfort. What dampeners are actually good for Sound: a noticeably quieter, more muted contact sound, which some players simply prefer. Feel: a softer, less "harsh" sensation through the hand on off-centre hits, even if the physical shock is unchanged. Habit and rhythm: some players use fitting or checking the dampener as a small pre-point routine. Do any players avoid them? Some competitive and touch-focused players deliberately play without a dampener because they use the natural string "ping" as feedback on contact quality — a duller sound on a mishit, a crisper sound on a clean strike. Our recommendation Use one if you like the sound and feel — it costs next to nothing and takes seconds to fit. But if your goal is reducing arm strain, put your budget into the right string (a multifilament or hybrid setup), a sensible tension, and a properly sized grip instead — that is where the real difference is made.

Quick answer: a replacement grip is the base wrap on the handle itself — thicker, tackier, built to last months. An overgrip is a thin layer wrapped on top of it — cheap, disposable, built to be swapped every few sessions. Most regular players use both together. What is a replacement grip? This is what comes on the racket from the factory. It sits directly on the handle, is roughly 1.5–1.8mm thick, and is designed to give the underlying comfort and tack that your hand feels through everything else. Replacement grips wear out unevenly — shiny patches, thinning, or a slick feel that no longer absorbs sweat — because they are not meant to be changed often. What is an overgrip? An overgrip is a thin (0.5–0.7mm) tacky wrap you apply on top of the replacement grip. It is cheap, sold in packs of 3–30, and exists purely to be replaced constantly — most club players change theirs every 1–4 weeks, more often in summer or if they sweat heavily. Why use both? Cost: overgrips cost a fraction of a replacement grip, so it is far cheaper to bin a damp, worn overgrip weekly than to strip the whole handle back down. Feel: the replacement grip underneath keeps its shape and cushioning far longer than any surface layer would alone. Hygiene: a fresh overgrip every few sessions keeps the racket feeling clean without disturbing the base layer. When do you actually need a replacement grip? Change the replacement grip itself when: it has visible tears or bald patches, it has gone hard and slick no matter how many overgrips you have added on top, or you want to change your grip size (adding a replacement grip is the only way to meaningfully bulk up a handle — an overgrip alone adds only about 1/16 inch). Most regular players replace it once or twice a year; occasional players can go two to three years. How to tell which one you are buying Packaging is the easiest tell: replacement grips are sold individually or in twin packs and specify a grip size (e.g. Grip 2, 3, 4). Overgrips are sold in multipacks, do not list a handle size, and are marketed by tackiness, thickness or dry/sweat-resistant feel (Yonex Super Grap, Wilson Pro Overgrip, Babolat VS Grip and similar). Our recommendation Fit one quality replacement grip when your handle first needs attention, then keep a multipack of overgrips on hand and change them little and often. It is the cheapest, simplest way to keep a racket feeling new between restrings.

Buy a junior racket that is too long and a child compensates with poor technique to swing it — buy one too short and they will outgrow it in a season. Racket length should be matched to height first and age second. Here is how to get it right. Junior racket sizes at a glance 19 inch: under 100cm tall, roughly age 4 and under. 21 inch: 100–115cm tall, roughly ages 5–6. 23 inch: 115–130cm tall, roughly ages 7–8. 25 inch: 130–145cm tall, roughly ages 9–10. 26 inch: 145–155cm tall, roughly ages 10–11, a useful step between junior and full length. 27 inch (full length): 155cm and above, roughly age 11 upwards, or as soon as a child is comfortable with an adult frame. Why height matters more than age Two nine-year-olds can differ by 20cm in height, so age alone is an unreliable guide. Stand the racket upright next to your child: the head should reach roughly to the middle of their palm when their arm hangs by their side. If the frame reaches their fingertips or beyond, it is too long. The "room to grow" mistake It is tempting to size up so a racket lasts longer, but an oversized frame is heavier and harder to control through the swing. Children develop poor habits — two-handed forehands, exaggerated backswings, mistimed contact — purely to manage a racket that is not proportional to their reach. A correctly sized racket costs less than the coaching needed to undo bad technique later. Weight and grip size for juniors Junior rackets are strung lighter than adult frames, typically 220–260g unstrung depending on length, so grip size rarely needs separate consideration — junior grips are built proportionally into each length. Focus on length first, and let weight follow from there. When to move up a size Re-check the palm test every few months. A junior who begins bending their elbow excessively to control the racket, or who has grown 5–8cm since their last size, is usually ready for the next length up. Most juniors move through two or three sizes between ages 5 and 12 before graduating to a full 27 inch frame. Our recommendation Bring your child into store for a quick fitting rather than guessing from a chart — it takes two minutes and avoids an expensive mis-size. We stock junior ranges from Wilson, Babolat, Head and Yonex across all six length categories, with free length-appropriate stringing on request.